Growing up on the Canadian lakeshore, I remember being enthralled watching the lake freighters as they slowly traversed the horizon. I often wondered where they were going and what they were carrying. To see those great ships lit up at night was always a special treat.
Years later, as we cruised the Great Lakes in our 46-foot Sea Ray Sundancer Memory Maker, I was finally able to get up close and personal with these behemoths. However, nothing can compare to actually being onboard one of them!
An eight-day trip aboard a lake freighter was up for bid at an auction we attended. Fueled by my fascination with these huge boats I was determined to win that “priceless” adventure – and we did! In anticipation of this unique experience, we decided to forgo a cruise on our own boat for the coming summer.
Unexpectedly, my husband of 45 years passed away. I sold our boat and closed that chapter of my life. However, I kept my boat shoes; there was still a freighter trip to consider. I thought our 17-year-old grandson, Garett, would be a perfect cruising companion. So, in mid-August, after going through some strict security, the two of us boarded the Algoma Strongfield at Lock 2 in the Welland Canal.
Our voyage took us across Lake Ontario and into the St. Lawrence River. We navigated narrow channels as we passed by the Thousand Islands, which were breathtaking at dawn. After completing a couple of lock systems, we sailed into the St. Lawrence Seaway.
It was amazing to see how the locks operate. Some had new suction devices that grabbed the hull and guided the boat as it was lowered. In other locks the crew had to tie up with huge cables. The distance between the hull and the lock wall was very small. I can’t imagine being at the helm. I had always wondered how these huge ships could enter the lock with such precision.
Looking down from the bridge, I discovered that the wall leading into the lock is angled. As the ship approaches, the bow lines up on the wall and is basically guided in – it’s like threading a needle, but not missing the eye.
Although our final destination was Montreal, we passed by this cosmopolitan gem and beautiful Quebec City as well. 
Our first stop was Baie Comeau where we were to unload grain.
Seeing the countryside from the elevation of the Strongfield’s bridge was inspiring. We saw small towns, impressive factories and rolling fields that gave way to pine-covered mountains as we traveled north. Being near the Gulf of St. Lawrence, we saw some pilot whales swimming around the ship. It was quite a bit colder up there too.
Although it was raining when we arrived at Baie Comeau, some of the crew were able to enjoy a little shore leave when we docked to unload. This was an interesting process to watch. Each hold cover was individually unbolted and lifted away before a giant vacuum-like tube could begin the long process of transferring grain from the holds of the ship to the silos. The transfer had to be suspended after a few hours because the silos were full; this set us back a day. Thankfully a “salty” arrived overnight to take on grain for an overseas destination so the unloading process could continue.
Watching the docking process was amazing as well. In Port Cartier, where we took on ore, the ship had to back in to dock behind another freighter. There were some tugs to assist but this surely took precision and skill. My personal docking experience is not so pretty; it can often be described as a one or a two banger, and that was with a 21-foot runabout, not a 740-foot cargo carrier!
The Strongfield may not be up to Carnival or Celebrity standards, but I was given the Owner’s Cabin and my grandson was assigned to the Pilot’s Cabin. Each of our staterooms had a double bed with monogrammed linens and down comforters. There was also a generous sitting area and private head with a shower.
Cruising on a lake freighter is not for those who expect nightly entertainment or spa services. However, I was thankful to find Wi-Fi, satellite TV and good cell phone reception. There was a gym on board which kept my grandson occupied several times a day and there were washing machines and dryers for me.
I was not expecting linen on the Captain’s table but I was surprised to discover the Strongfield did not have a cook in the galley; they had a chef! It was a treat to enjoy different and wonderfully prepared food each day. However, because there was no wait staff, everyone served and cleaned up after themselves. This was a good life lesson for my grandson.
Sitting with the crew was an interesting experience. Everyone was very welcoming. We learned about life on the freighter and a bit of their personal backgrounds; they hailed from many different parts of the world. There were eighteen crew members on board, including one woman. Working on the boat is a multi-month assignment with little breaks between when the Seaway opens in late March to when it closes each year between Christmas and New Year’s. 
I was impressed by their knowledge, dedication and professionalism.
We really loved our tour of the ship. From the bowels of the immaculately clean engine room to the bow where the huge anchor chains and lines were neatly coiled, we were amazed not only by the size of the boat but also with the diligence of the crew to keep her in Bristol-fashion.
My grandson was also very interested in the safety features of the Strongfield; he paid strict attention to our “just in case” instructions. I think Garett was secretly hoping to take a ride in the orange escape pod (made famous by the film Captain Phillips) which hung precariously from the stern.
My time aboard the Algoma Strongfield was both exciting and extremely restful. I enjoyed a new cruising experience – for eight days I could do exactly as I wanted (as was permitted) between the Strongfield’s decks. I saw the water and surrounding countryside from a new perspective and developed a greater level of respect for those who dedicate their lives to contributing to our world economy on these great ships. Yet in the end, sharing this time with my grandson was priceless. It was a trip we will never forget- a true memory maker.
